Wednesday, March 31, 2010

finding foreignness in france

This weekend we visited Alsace, the region at the north-eastern most tip of France. The culture there is strongly influenced by Germany, not only because of the border the region shares but because Alsace has been German in the past. I believe Nicolas said it has changed nationalities five times.

Our first stop was Strasbourg, which is infact very close to the border of Germany. I was secretly hoping we could pop over for a visit to another country, but that didn't happen. Instead, we headed to the European Parliament. I think we were all a bit dazed because we'd just been in a bus for three hours and hadn't had time to stretch our legs or install ourselves (excuse the francocism) before being whisked off to this seat of diplomacy. We were treated to a short tour, the main interest of which was the main room, where representatives fromo the E.U. come together to discuss and dispute. Our guide explained to us the many intricacies and details such as who sits where and how communication works. I found the system of translation fascinating. In theory, everyone can communicate in their native language, even if it's Gaelic, and there will be an interpretor standing by to translate for any combination of language. It's astonishing. And apparently, all we'd have to do to be a translator for the European Parliament is perfect our French, learn German and marry a French citizen. No problem.

The rest of our time in Strasbourg was spent walking around and exploring the city.


Notre Dame de Strasbourg


The statues mean serious business.


Inside the cathedral.


The astrological clock.


I really enjoyed Strasbourg. It was such an amalgamation of different cultures and aesthetics; sometimes it felt just how I imagined Amsterdam to be and other times I could have sworn we were in Germany. It was very easy to forget that this was still France.




A bike by the river Ill -- very reminiscent of (my idea of) Amsterdam>



The buildings in general tended to be very colorful and lively, but I loved this little street all in white.


"Dock of Little France"


Strasbourg is so un-French that it includes an area called Little France! I'm not really sure what was so particularly French about it though -- it was really just grassy little island on the river. We were expecting more of a French quarter and were a bit confused by what we found.

After our day of exploration we had an Alsatian dinner in a restaurant by the river. (Michael tagent!) As you may imagine, Alsatian cuisine is largely influenced by that of Germany -- lots of sauerkraut and strange meats. I'd been introduced to this already by my host family who actually has strong roots in Alsace (Pascale lived there as a child and Louis was born there). A few weeks after coming here they served a traditional Alsatian dish that basically consists of a large pile of sauerkraut topped with various meats, mostly pork products. It wasn't bad, but it's not something I'd order myself. So I mostly played it safe this trip and stayed away from the sauerkraut. I did, however, partake in the beer which of course is a specialty of Alsace. I'm not generally a beer fan, but I can definitely appreciate good beer, and this was really good beer. With the good beer, tarte flambé (similar to pizza but without sauce) and apple strudel, I was perfectly content.

The next day we left Strasbourg to visit the Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg



This château was completely unlike those of the Loire; it was much older and thus served more of a practical role as a fortress rather than an elaborate country getaway.


A real drawbridge!


Well, some of it was elaborate.


There was definitely still some hunting that went on here.


The view from the top of the château.


Our next stop was a small town that Nathalie said we had to see because it was typical of Alsace. To me, it felt liked we'd stepped into Candy Land or Hansel and Gretel.







Houses the color of candy lined the street and sweet shops were open everywhere selling their goods on the street. All of this in the context of an old German-style town with cobble stone streets and artfully made signs hanging in front of shops.

When we'd had our fill of this ridiculous cuteness, it was time to head off to our next destination -- a wine tasting of course! We tasted the white wines of Alsace: Riesling, pino gris (my favorite) and some others that were insanely sweet. And to go with our wine we had some kougelhopf (pronounced KOO-gloff), the traditional cake of Alsace.


Kougelhopf! Delicious!


That night we stayed in a small town near the winery, in a hotel with a pool! We were excited about the pool and enjoyed ourselves in it. We also had an enjoyable dinner in the hotel. It was spent writing postcards to Michel, our French professor in Tacoma, and listening to children speaking English, marveling that there were other Americans staying in this small town.

After dinner we spent an amusing night walking in circles around the tiny town. Some of us ended up sitting around on a bench watching cars pass and wondering what it would be like to live in a place like that.

On our last day we went to the town of Colmar, where the creator of the Statue of Liberty lived and where there is a smaller version in honor of him. We didn't get to see any of this due to lack of time, but my host dad told me about it. Instead we went to the Musée d’Unterlinden and saw another painting from the survey of western art history that Abby, Emma and I took.


The Isenheim Altarpiece


It's an astonishing, larger-than-life tableau that was originally constructed with several layers so that it would change at certain times of the year. It's now broken up so that viewers can see it all at one time. The above image is what was displayed throughout most of the year.





On Easter, it was opened up to show these four scenes, including that of Christ rising.





On the feast day of St. Anthony the tableau opened further to reveal these paintings and this sculptural scene of the saint. For some reason, Kolya never told us about this part of the piece and Abby and I were quite surprised. Even though this sort of art never interested me very much and, in fact, I remember this piece being particularly frustrating to study for because it had so many layers of meaning and importance, it was a really fantastic experience. I am so enjoying all these opportunities I've had to actually interact with history and to apply all the knowledge I've gained at university.

More generally, I really enjoyed the strange mélange of colors and tastes and history that was Alsace. It was a nice balance of strange and familiar, but it's also whet my appetite for new lands -- every time I looked around and felt that I was practically in Germany, I wanted so badly to actually be there. As much as I love France, it's amazing how much, for the most part, it has stopped feeling so foreign. I'm not really sure how I feel about it but it makes me a little anxious for more extreme foreignness -- even for being in a place where I don't know the language.

As it just so happens, I'll be experiencing this very soon. I'm leaving for my two week spring break this weekend. I'm going to spend my first week lounging on the beaches of the Greek island of Naxos and the second week visiting Hannah, my friend from home, in Beirut! I don't really know what to expect of these trips, especially the latter, but I know it's going to be amazing and very foreign and I can't wait.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

le printemps arrive!

After months of dreary gray and dreams of warmer days, the weather is finally turning around. I've spent all this time imagining how beautiful Dijon would be in the springtime and it hasn't let me down. Flowers are blooming, birds are singing, and the streets are alive with people, sitting outside of cafes and drinking Oranginas.

Still, these are French people we're talking about, so you would never know the difference to look at them. They continue to wear scarves and coats, and all black of course. I wore a skirt without tights one day and was surprised to find myself feeling a bit naked. If this were Washington, people would be in shorts and tank tops! The French people simply don't understand.

I on the other hand have been taking every opportunity I can to soak it in. We've spent several lunches by Lake Kir (a small man-made lake named after the former mayor of Dijon and the creator of everyone's favorite aperatif), eating sandwiches on the dock and letting our bare feet hang over the water. One day we went to Erica's neighborhood (she lives in a suburb just on the edge of the city) and walked around with her host mother. We walked up to the top of a hill on which sits a church where Saint-Benigne, the patron saint of Dijon, lived. From there, we could see a view of all Dijon. We continued on through a small wooded area and found ourselves in a little patch of idyllic farmland. Sadly, the pastoral beauty was interrupted by the construction site of a future highway and the view of the mall in the distance. Nonetheless, I still want to go back one day for a photo shoot or a picnic.

We've also spent time in some of the parks of Dijon. Several times we've simply sat in the park near the center of town doing our homework, or at least trying to. A few days ago, Lauren, Abby and I went to the Parc de la Colombière, a bigger park that Abby and I had visited in the beginning of the semester when everything was cold and dead. This time we found flowers blooming and children playing and baby animals! There's a small zoo of sorts in the middle of the park with llamas, goats, peacocks, guinnea pigs, and all other sorts of random animals. It's a bit strange, admittedly, but this time there were baby goats! They were unbelievably adorable -- running around, making adorable noises and jumping on their mamas' backs! We spent an insane amount of time watching them. Someday, we're going to come back with carrots to feed them.

All of these adventures have been rather spontaneous so I sadly don't have any pictures to share. It's one of the downsides of having a giant SLR. I will simply have to suck it up and start lugging it around with me when it's nice out because I plan I having plenty more adventures.

Tomorrow, in fact, is our next excursion. We're going to Alsace and so I will be having some German-flavored adventures very soon.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

fête de lutte

I think it's time I show you a snapshot of what life is really like in France.

The French go on strike a lot. It's called la grève and everyone here knows it's just a part of life. Does it accomplish anything? I really have no idea, but it's become a part of the bureaucratic system and there's so sign of it ever stopping.

Of course I'd heard tell of this long before I came here. (Last year, the students at the university went on strike.) Thus I knew it was only a matter of time, but I was still not excited to learn that the buses were going to grève on Thursday. I live about a twenty minute bus ride from school, which is far enough away that I would have to wake up even earlier than I already do to walk and make it on time. Was not gonna happen. Fortunately, the buses still run on a limited schedule, meaning they come every twenty minutes but not on any given schedule. Meaning I had to basically guess when the bus would come and if I missed it I was screwed.

To make things even more ridiculous, this is what I saw out my window when I woke up Thursday morning:


A beautiful day for a grève!


I got ready as quickly as I could, not wanting to be late but also not wanting to be too early and have to wait in the cold. By the time I got out the door and had walked to the bus stop, the sign said the next bus was in 20 minutes. Fuck.

So I listened to Fresh Air and wandered around taking pretty pictures of the snow while I waited for the bus.





I ended up being almost an hour late to class. (Each class is two hours long.) Fortunately for me, Amanda and Molly were on the same bus as me, so I wasn't alone in my failure.



This is what greeted us when we finally arrived at campus, which is incredibly ugly by the way. Normally snow makes everything so beautiful, but here the world just looks more bleak.



These piles of rocks are supposed to be art, apparently.



These are the depressing-as-hell barracks where we have class. Never imagine that everything in France is beautiful.

The next day I arose expecting another catastrophe but attempting to avoid it by getting to the bus station earlier. However, it was to no avail because there were absolutely no buses running! Catastrophe indeed! Emma and I just stared at the little informative flyer in amazed consternation. Fortunately, Emma's host mom was nice enough to drive us part of the way to school, otherwise we would have literally had to walk over an hour to school, in the show, uphill, like somebody's grandma.

Voilà, the insanity that is France.

I've tasted wine; I've visited castles; I've experienced a grève. Now I really know what it is to live in France.

Monday, March 15, 2010

les chateaux de la loire, part 2

On Saturday morning Abby and I woke up a bit early so that we could go into town and find a replacement memory card for me. Thankfully, we were successful, so from now on all of the following pictures were taken by me.



Testing out the new memory card: this is the view of Blois from the top of the hill, with the Loire River in the distance.




These little symbols are all around Blois; they mark out a path for tourists to follow in order to see different parts of the city. There are four different types. This one is a porcupine, one of the symbols of Blois.

That day we were visiting Chenonceau, the Chateau that Henri II gave to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers.





Sadly, because it's winter time and thus not peak tourist season, the facade of the castle was being reconstructed and we couldn't quite fully appreciate it as we would have liked to. It was a bit obnoxious, but there were many other aspects of Chenonceau to enjoy.



One of the most interesting things about Chenonceau is that it's built over the river Cher.



Also, we got these nifty video iPods as part of our audio tour. Definitely the coolest and most helpful audio tour I've seen so far.



Diane de Poitiers' room, with a portrait of Catherine de Medici (Henri II's wife) hanging over the mantle. Awkward.



The gallery.


During World War I, the gallery was used as a hospital. (Now I'm basically going to translate what the Chenonceau pamphlet says because it's really interesting.) During World War II, the Cher River was the demarcation line. The entrance of the Chateau was part of the occupied zone (on the right bank). The gallery, with the southern door giving access to the left bank, allowed the Resistence to pass numerous people over to the free zone. Throughout the war, the German army nearly destroyed Chenonceau.



The kitchens. I had a lot of fun in these rooms.








Maybe a little too much fun.




The Louis XIV Room.


On the mantle are a salamander and an ermine which are, incidentally, not the symbols of Louis XIV but of Francois I and his wife, respectively.



I believe the room was named after this portrait, which Louis XIV gave to his uncle after having visited Chenonceau a long time before. I don't know. I just thought the red was pretty.



The Room of Five Queens, named for Catherine de Medici's five daughters and daughters-in-law: La Reine Margot, Elisabeth de France, Marie Stuart, Elisabeth d'Autriche, Louise de Lorraine.



Catherine de Medici's room.




I love this room. It's decorated entirely in drawings of Chenonceau.



This room was fascinating. It belonged to Louise de Lorraine, whose husband, Henri III, was assassinated. After his death, she came to Chenonceau to live a secluded and pious life in this black room.



Garden of Diane de Poitiers


Outside the Chateau are the gardens, (there are two on opposite sides of the castle, one for the mistress and one for the wife) which were beautiful but made me wish we could be there during the springtime to see everything in bloom.



There was also a labyrinth!



Not a very difficult one.





We had a bit of the photo shoot, again.

We fooled around so much in the labyrinth that Nathalie had to change our lunch plans, but she was completely fine with it and so were we. We had a delicious lunch of crèpes in a restaurant right near another Chateau which we didn't visit.

Instead we went to see the last house that Leonardo Da Vinci lived in.



It was a pretty neat place to walk through, trying to picture all that genius wandering around the rooms.



There were quotes like this all over the house.






Da Vinci's desk!




One of the rooms was filled with descriptions and representations of Da Vinci's many inventions, from water screws to machine guns. To say the least, it was pretty impressive.

Around the house were expansive gardens that we could explore. Scattered around were various other inventions



Like this. I don't actually remember what it is though.




Apparently, Da Vinci kept pigeons. Like, thousands of pigeons. They were useful for something. (Can you tell I was a little over it at this point?)

That night we had a dinner with much giggling and probably a bit too much alcohol. (However, Emma, Amanda, Erica and I still managed to keep our pact to try to speak French throughout the whole dinner!) It was all in preparation for our night at the discothèque! In fact, it was an Irish pub/discothèque. I don't even know. It was a fun night, I'll leave it at that.

Consequently, it was not such a fun morning. However, we all managed to get up, successfully check out of the swanky Holiday Inn and take one last walk around Blois before we had to leave that afternoon.



We decided to follow the fleurs de lys around for a while. (Those were the ones closest to our hotel.)





Ah Loch Ness, how you treated us well.




This, I suppose, is where all the walks meet up: the porcupine, the fleur de lys, the boat (for the river) and the church.




The other side of the stairs, just to bring things full circle.


Thus with our train ride back to reality ended our magical weekend of exploring castles and getting lost in history, and also alcohol.